safeandsecure.ie/topics/cyber/home-wifi-and-network

Your home Wi-Fi and network: a plain guide

Give your Wi-Fi a long password that is not the one on the sticker, and give the router’s settings page a different one. Use WPA3 or WPA2. Then look at the list of everything connected, and remove anything you do not know.

Last checked against the sources listed at the end of this page.

We sell nothing, and no company paid to be on this page. The two products named link to their makers’ own websites. None of those links earns us money.

Clay illustration of a plain home Wi-Fi router on a hall table, beside a plant, a notepad and a lamp

The short answer

Free help first

Your broadband provider

The router (the box that connects your home to the internet and makes your Wi-Fi) usually comes from your provider, and its help pages show how to change its settings: there is a list below. If your router only offers the old WEP or WPA security, the US Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security Agency (CISA) says to contact the provider that gave you the router and ask for an upgrade (opens in a new tab).

The NCSC’s free booklet on passwords

“How to keep your online accounts secure” (opens in a new tab) is the NCSC’s short booklet in plain English. Its advice on strong passwords and passphrases works for your Wi-Fi too. Our passwords guide goes through it.

Ask someone to sit with you

If a family member or friend set up your broadband, ask them to go through the checklist on this page with you, with the router’s app or settings page open. Never write a password on the sheet.

What are the two passwords on my router?

Your router is the box from your broadband provider that connects your home to the internet and makes your Wi-Fi. Everything that connects to it, by Wi-Fi or by cable, is your home network. The NI Cyber Security Centre puts it simply: if the router has weak security, then your whole network does too (opens in a new tab).

A router has two different passwords, and both often start out on a sticker on the router:

  • The Wi-Fi password (sometimes called the Wi-Fi key or wireless key): what you and your visitors type to join the Wi-Fi.
  • The settings-page password (the admin, login or web interface password): what opens the router’s settings, in a web browser or your provider’s app. Whoever has it can change everything, including the Wi-Fi password.

On some routers, the two start out the same

On eir’s fibre box F3000, the settings page’s default password is the same as the Wi-Fi password on the sticker (opens in a new tab), and eir’s help pages say the wireless password and the admin password are the same on all eir modems (opens in a new tab). So anyone you have given the sticker’s Wi-Fi password to could open the router’s settings, until you change it.

The advice differs here. Pure Telecom’s page for its TG588 modem, when it asks you to change the settings password, recommends changing it to your Wi-Fi password (opens in a new tab). We say use a different one. CISA asks for a router login that is long, random, and unique (opens in a new tab), and a Wi-Fi passphrase you do not use for anything else, and the NCSC asks for a different password for each important account (opens in a new tab).

What makes a good Wi-Fi password, and how do I change it?

Long is what matters. The NCSC’s advice for any important password is at least 12 characters, and 14 or more is better (opens in a new tab). A passphrase of random words is easier to remember and type: the NCSC says at least 3 words, and 4 or more is better (opens in a new tab), and not words linked to you, such as your hobbies. CISA goes further, with 5 to 7 unrelated words, at least 16 characters (opens in a new tab). Your router may accept a shorter one (eir’s asks for at least 8 characters (opens in a new tab)), but longer is better.

Change the one on the sticker. The NCSC says the password a provider’s router comes with is generally shorter than the recommended 12 characters (opens in a new tab), and the sticker is there for anyone in the house to read. When you change it, every phone, laptop, TV and gadget has to join again with the new password: Three’s guide says so (opens in a new tab) for its hub, and Pure Telecom’s (opens in a new tab) for its modem.

How do I change it? Your provider’s own help pages

Every router is different, so follow your provider’s steps for yours. These pages are for the provider’s own routers; if yours is another model, search the provider’s help pages for the name on your router.

Not with one of these? Look on your provider’s website for the name on your router’s sticker, or ring their helpline.

WPA3, WPA2, WPA, WEP: which Wi-Fi security should I use, and why?

The Wi-Fi security setting is the lock on your Wi-Fi. It scrambles (encrypts) everything that travels through the air between your devices and the router, so that someone nearby cannot read it or join without the password. You will find it in the router’s settings, under Wi-Fi or wireless, as “security”, “encryption” or “authentication”. There have been four kinds:

WPA3: the best

The newest, from 2018 (opens in a new tab), and now mandatory for Wi-Fi CERTIFIED devices (opens in a new tab) (equipment certified by the Wi-Fi Alliance, the industry body). Its big gain is against password guessing: with WPA3, someone cannot sit somewhere else trying password after password without connecting to your network again. The Wi-Fi Alliance says this “offline dictionary attack” (opens in a new tab) is not possible. And even if someone does learn the password, they cannot read what you sent earlier (opens in a new tab).

WPA2: fine, with a long password

Required on all Wi-Fi CERTIFIED equipment since 2006 (opens in a new tab). The Wi-Fi Alliance says WPA2 devices still provide recognized security (opens in a new tab), and CISA counts WPA3 and WPA2 AES (opens in a new tab) (often shown simply as WPA2, or WPA2-PSK) as the only two safe settings. Use it if your router, or one of your devices, cannot do WPA3, and give it a long password: guessing is the weakness WPA3 closes.

WPA and WEP: old, switch them off

WEP was the first Wi-Fi lock, and gave limited protection (opens in a new tab). WPA replaced it in 2003 as a stopgap, and its scrambling method (TKIP) no longer provides sufficient security (opens in a new tab): it is built on the same weak scrambling as WEP. The NI Cyber Security Centre says WEP and WPA should not be used (opens in a new tab), and never to set your Wi-Fi to “Open”, which has no password at all.

What about the mixed settings?

  • “WPA2/WPA3” (or “WPA2 + WPA3”) is fine. It lets an older device join with WPA2 while newer ones use WPA3, on the same network with the same password: the Wi-Fi Alliance calls it transition mode (opens in a new tab).
  • Avoid “WPA/WPA2” and anything that says “TKIP”. The Wi-Fi Alliance strongly discourages (opens in a new tab) them, because they keep the old, weak method switched on.

To see which one you use, open your router’s settings or app and look under Wi-Fi or wireless security: the NI Cyber Security Centre says you will need to log into your router to check (opens in a new tab). If it only offers WEP or WPA, ask your provider for a newer router, as CISA advises.

How do I look after the router itself?

NCSC Ireland warns that many home routers use a default password (opens in a new tab), and the NI Cyber Security Centre says attackers will know the default username and passwords for most standard devices (opens in a new tab). The fixes are free, and most are a setting you change once.

What is a guest network, and should I use one?

A guest network is a second Wi-Fi network from the same router, with its own name and password. Whoever joins it gets the internet, but is kept apart from your own computers, phones and printer. The NI Cyber Security Centre says most home routers will have a “Guest” Wi-Fi network (opens in a new tab).

CISA’s advice is to switch it on, with a separate password that is long, random, and unique (opens in a new tab), for anyone who does not routinely use your Wi-Fi: visitors, the babysitter, a tradesperson. It also suggests putting smart gadgets (plugs, bulbs, speakers, cameras) on it if the internet is all they need, so they cannot reach the rest of your home network.

Why some advice says turn it off

NCSC Ireland’s 2020 advice for people working from home said to turn guest networking off. Its reason: on some routers guest access is on from the start, and needs no security key (opens in a new tab) (no password) to join. An open guest network lets anyone nearby use your internet.

So both are right, and the answer is simple: use a guest network only with its own password. If yours is on with no password, or you never use it, turn it off.

One catch: a guest network keeps devices apart, so a gadget your phone needs to find at home, such as a TV you cast to, may need to stay on your main network.

What is on my network, and what can others on it reach?

ComReg, the communications regulator, says we often may have more devices connected to the internet than we realise (opens in a new tab): TVs, smart doorbells, security systems, smart home devices and appliances, as well as phones, tablets and laptops. So it is worth a look.

How to see what is connected

Anyone you give the Wi-Fi password to is on the same network as your own things. Many devices ask for a password before their settings can be changed, but often it is one the maker set. Check that it is not still the one the device came with:

Cheap Android TV boxes: a warning from the NCSC

In July 2025, NCSC Ireland warned about malware called BadBox 2.0, built in before sale on some low-cost Android devices: tablets, TV boxes (that plug into a TV to stream programmes), digital photo frames and phones (opens in a new tab). An infected device can give criminals a way into your home network, and the NCSC says a factory reset often does not remove it (opens in a new tab). It counted 10,053 Irish internet addresses (the numbers that identify a connection online, not homes or devices) connecting to it.

Its advice is calm and simple: be careful with very cheap smart devices, and buy from trusted vendors (opens in a new tab), makers and shops you know. Keep Google Play Protect (Android’s own malware check) switched on, and avoid apps from unofficial stores that offer free streaming. If you are unsure about a box you already have, ask the shop you bought it from.

What do the new EU rules mean when I buy a router or smart device?

Since 1 August 2025, new wireless devices that connect to the internet must meet EU cybersecurity rules before they can be sold. The rules cover any radio equipment that can communicate itself over the internet (opens in a new tab), and their start date was moved to 1 August 2025 (opens in a new tab). They apply to new products: devices already on sale before then can continue to be used (opens in a new tab). In Ireland, ComReg checks that radio equipment on the market meets them (opens in a new tab).

From 11 December 2027 the EU’s Cyber Resilience Act takes over (opens in a new tab), when its main obligations apply (opens in a new tab). It lists routers and modems (opens in a new tab) as “important products”. Makers must state the month and year support ends, at the time of purchase (opens in a new tab); the support period should normally be at least five years (opens in a new tab); and security updates should, where they can, install automatically by default.

What it means for you: when you buy a router or any smart device, ask how long it will get security updates. The UK’s NCSC suggests you think of the support date as a “use by” date (opens in a new tab).

Do I need a new router or a mesh system?

Usually not. Everything above works with the router you have. Two reasons to change: your router only offers WEP or WPA, or gets no updates (ask your provider for a newer one first); or the Wi-Fi does not reach every room. For that, a mesh system helps: two or more units that work together as one Wi-Fi network.

Ask your provider first. Some offer their own: eir, for example, has Wi-Fi boosters for its broadband customers (opens in a new tab). And if you buy your own router, your provider may not help with it: Three says you can use your own modem, but “we do not support these devices (opens in a new tab)”.

Before you buy

Check with your provider that your own router or mesh system will work with your connection. Then look for WPA3, a guest network, automatic updates, and how long the maker promises security updates.

These are examples, not the only good choices. We name them from what their makers publish. We have not tested them ourselves, and no link here earns us anything.

TP-Link

Deco X50, 2-pack (Wi-Fi 6 mesh)

Good for: a home where the Wi-Fi does not reach every room. The two units work together as one Wi-Fi network, and you manage them from an app on your phone.

  • Wi-Fi security: WPA3-Personal, as well as WPA2.
  • Guest networks, and an app that lists every connected device, with a button to block one.

Check it works: The first unit connects to your provider’s router or modem. TP-Link says a 2-pack covers up to 4,500 square feet (about 418 m²); a bigger home may need a third.

From TP-Link’s product page (opens in a new tab), checked 7 October 2026.

See it on TP-Link’s site (opens in a new tab)

FRITZ!

FRITZ!Box 7530 AX (Wi-Fi 6 router)

Good for: replacing your router, if it is your own or your provider lets you use your own. It plugs straight into a phone-line connection (VDSL, used for fibre to the cabinet), or into the fibre box of a fibre-to-the-home connection through its LAN 1 port. Pure Telecom, for one, publishes set-up steps for a FRITZ!Box on its fibre lines (opens in a new tab).

Check it works: Ask your provider first whether you can use your own router, and for the settings it needs. Check it comes with a three-pin plug for an Irish socket.

From FRITZ!’s technical specifications (opens in a new tab), checked 7 October 2026.

See it on FRITZ!’s site (opens in a new tab)

Your home network, step by step

Have your router’s sticker in front of you, and your provider’s help page open.

  1. 1

    Open your router’s app or settings page

    Your provider’s help page (listed further up) says how. The address and the login are often on the sticker.
  2. 2

    Give the settings page its own new password

    Long, and not the same as the Wi-Fi password. Anyone you give the Wi-Fi password to should not be able to change the router.
  3. 3

    Change the Wi-Fi password to a long one

    Four or more random words, 12 characters or more, used for nothing else. Then reconnect each device with the new password.
  4. 4

    Check the Wi-Fi security says WPA3 or WPA2

    WPA2/WPA3 is fine too. If it says WEP, WPA, TKIP or Open, change it, or ask your provider.
  5. 5

    Turn off what you do not use, and turn on updates

    WPS and remote management off, if your router lets you. Automatic updates on, or ask your provider whether it updates the router.
  6. 6

    Set up a guest network with its own password

    For visitors, and for smart gadgets that only need the internet. If a guest network is on with no password, turn it off.
  7. 7

    Look at the list of connected devices

    Remove anything you do not recognise. Then change the default passwords on your printer and cameras.

Home network check

Tick each line as you do it. Never write a password on this sheet.

What is on my network

  1. I have looked at the list of devices connected to my router

    Phones, computers, TVs, printers, cameras, speakers, plugs.

  2. I recognise everything on it, and removed anything I did not

The router

  1. Its settings-page password is changed, and is not the Wi-Fi password

  2. Updates install automatically, or my provider looks after them

  3. WPS is off, if my router lets me

  4. Remote management is off, unless I use it

  5. The network name does not show my name, my address or the router’s make

The Wi-Fi

  1. The Wi-Fi password is long, and not the one on the sticker

    Four or more random words, 12 characters or more.

  2. The security setting is WPA3 or WPA2

    WPA2/WPA3 is fine. Never WEP, WPA, TKIP or Open.

  3. Visitors use a guest network with its own password, or it is turned off

Other devices

  1. The printer’s and cameras’ passwords are not the ones they came with

  2. Updates are on for the TV, cameras and other smart gadgets

From safeandsecure.ie/topics/cyber/home-wifi-and-network. Last checked 7 October 2026. Sources: National Cyber Security Centre (ncsc.gov.ie); NI Cyber Security Centre (nicybersecuritycentre.gov.uk); CISA (cisa.gov); Wi-Fi Alliance (wi-fi.org); UK NCSC (ncsc.gov.uk); your broadband provider’s own help pages.

The checklist prints on one page, in black on white, with a box to tick beside each line. It has no space for passwords, on purpose. The whole guide prints without the menus, and with the address of every source.

Download the designed sheetA designed version of this sheet, ready to print. Free to print and share.

One thing to do this week

This week, open your router’s list of connected devices and check you recognise everything on it.

It is in your router’s app or on its settings page, often called “connected devices” or “devices”. The NI Cyber Security Centre’s advice is to investigate and remove any unrecognised devices (opens in a new tab).

If something is there that you did not let in, change the Wi-Fi password. Every device then has to reconnect with the new one, as Three’s guide to its hub (opens in a new tab) says, so only the ones you set up again come back.

Sources

Every fact on this page comes from one of these, and each was read on 7 October 2026.